Juan’s wines of the month: June 2010*


*each month Juan Sanchez, owner of La Dernière Goutte and Laura pick out some wines that are drinking especially well. Here are this months selections.

We have gone through a lot of cavists over the last three years. Most of the cavists were French, and while they knew their product, they had a difficult time pairing with the flavors and spice of the food we were cooking. We were explaining a course of scallops, chorizo, lime and sweet corn to our old cavist who responded, “how about pairing it with RUM!” As one blogger pointed out after dining early on at HK, “while the food was generally delicious, the wines were not so great”. It felt like even our good pairings came simply by happenstance.

Then two years ago, we met Juan. For the last 14 years, Juan has been selling wine from his left-bank institution La Dernière Goutte and serving glasses of wine from his restaurants Fish and Cosi just around the corner from the shop. Juan knows his wines, know the regions, the soil and knows personally all of the producers who make the wines he sells. As part of his agreement with them, the producers must come to Paris once a year and talk to customers at one of the shops free weekly wine tastings. More importantly for us, Juan is also a professionally trained chef. Scallops with chorizo, lime and sweet corn? “A smokey chardonnay from the Jura of course.”

To kick things off, let’s start with a another Jura, the 2008 Fleur de Savagnin “En Chalasse” from Domaine Labet (15,8€). I find this wine interesting because of what it doesn’t have; the oxidation give most Jura’s their sherry-like smell and taste. Here, the nose is a bit sweet, but the nuttiness and acidity shine through as soon as it hits your lips.

Another debunker is the “corail” rosé from the Provencal Chateau de Roquefort. I think Americans typically think of rosé as being sweet and from a jug. Here is one that is so deliciously clean and refreshing, you’ll want to bring it to your next picnic. It’s great for apero or to pair with summer picnic fare- even barbecue. And the price is great too at 9,4€.

Lastly, a bit of a splurge wine at 24€, is a Pinot Noir from Domaine Bruno Clair in Marsannay. To be honest, I had never heard of this little Burgundian village so I was pleasantly surprised when Paul poured me a glass of “Les Longeroies” at the Fish bar. I instantly fell in love with it’s hints of violet and a pleasant dryness- the features I like most in Pinot Noir. Miam!

La Derniére Goutte
6 rue Bourbon le Château – Paris – France – 75006

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4 Responses to “Juan’s wines of the month: June 2010*”

  1. Sharon Says:

    Nice writeup and pictures of a great place and some great wines.

    The Labet is a savagnin, though, not a chardonnay….

  2. hkmenus Says:

    Oh, yes- I can see the confusion, I was referencing two different wines- I’ll make a note there! Thanks for pointing that out Sharon.

  3. Wine and Food Pairing | Wine Reviews Says:

    […] Juan's wines of the month: June 2010 « Hidden Kitchen Recipes […]

  4. Maggie Says:

    Oh yum, can’t wait to try these wines. Now we just need some decent weather to pair the rose with.

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